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Discussion in 'Vectra Diaries' started by stevie16v, Nov 26, 2016.
How will you do the piston rings? Drop subframe, sump off and in through that way?
Yeah most likely, unless I can figure a way to do it without dropping the subframe. Heads off, Sump off, release the con rod from the crank then push the piston up and out. If I do need to do it then I'll be probably writing it off as road worthy until next year, It ain't exactly a wee job
Just had a look, shouldn't be any need to remove the subframe, probably need to drop the front exhaust pipe tho
Sounds like a good plan.
Things are looking a bit better. I went out and done a compression test. All cylinders are between 180-190psi which if I'm right is good readings, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
Another wee bit of work done underneath. A touch more paint to protect the subframe and chassis. New track rod end, and I released the seriously seized lock nut. I had to cut off the track rod end nut too because it was seized solid and then just started turning the joint.
New wishbone on to.
Bolts de-rusted and cleaned up a bit, xenon level sensor bracket rubbed down and sprayed, that'll go on the next day or two, then I get to do it all again on the other side. Going to undo the triangle plates at the back of the frame to rub them down and paint them too so they look a bit cleaner.
no way will you need to drop subframe to do pistons..
exhaust off...sump off..access to cranks, undo bolts....and take off from top with you having heads off....
dont forget to put ring gaps at opp sides though..iv seen people not do that and then hav a smoking motor/low compression lol
Don't think I'll bother doing them at all to be honest. The compression is up at 180-190 psi on all chambers. Quite fancy getting it mot'd, once I've done a few other bits and then painted and get some use out of it. It's not smoking constantly, just a puff at start up so I can hold off a bit longer on the valve stem seals
Managed to work on it a little bit today in daylight. There is definitely blue smoke coming out the back at startup and when revving. Given that the compression is good I can assume the piston rings are fine and it's probably the stem seals that are gubbed. Cyl 2 and 6 had oily plugs so I'll put money on it being them. Anyway, I've decided just to go ahead and do the top end. Full gasket set and seals getting done. I'll lap the valves and seats too. Just means it's going to be much more expensive and more of a project than I first thought. Hopefully it won't all be in vain.
A bit more tidying up on the subframe at the passenger side, new wishbone and there will be a new track rod end put on once I get the current one off. The thread has corroded to such an extent that I can#t get the nut off and I managed to snap my hacksaw handle yesterday.
Any words of wisdom or tips for when I do the heads?
Id invest in a good torque wrench mate and a very good breaker bar to crack the head bolts as there very tight and use genuine head gaskets other than that its pretty straight forward to do mate @beef1985 is the beat man to ask for advice tho mate
Already got decent wrenches and breaker bars so that's not an issue. I'll be ordering Elring gaskets, they seem to be OE ones and are pretty much half the price so hopefully no issues there
The head bolts a the t50-55 socket aswell mate becarefull not to snap it tho as i found out the hard way and it snapped and flung up and smacked me in the face lol blumin hurts them gaskets should be fine mate i remember when i did was a fun job very stressfull as i had to do the timing without a tool then it slipped a tooth the next day on the home and wrecked the car lesson learned to never do the timing without a tool lol never had much luck with mine
Yeah got that, I've got a fairly heavy duty 1/2 drive set that should do the trick.
Got the timing tools too so it'll be well marked up before stripping and I'll take my time putting it all back together. I tend to turn it over a dozen or so times by hand before even thinking about starting it.
I've got pretty much a full workshop set up in my garage except for a workbench, but I'll be fabricating a folding one for doing the head work on.
Are you planning on doing all the head work yourself or sending the heads off to an engine rebuilder to have them done?
I'll do most of it myself. I'm happy enough doing the stem seals and lapping the valve seats. I'm taking them to the local machine shop who are going to check them for straightness then skim them if needed, I don't have the equipment to do them correctly. They're a very good outfit and will only take off the absolute minimum to make them straight but in all honesty I don't think they'll need done.
Hope you ain't getting sick of the updates yet!
Got a shift change at work today so I had a few hours spare before the wife got home. Once I got the front wishbone on I turned the car round and got set about the cylinder heads. It's actually not too bad a job so far. Just a bit time consuming to get everything moved that needs moved.
I already had quite a bit off eg bumper etc but it wouldn't be necessary for the job anyway.
Firstly aux belt off along with water pump, power steering pump and crank shaft pulleys.
Set the timing to about 60 degrees before the timing mark, this means that the pistons should be down the chamber a bit reducing the risk of any potential damage.
Electrical routing moved, drop the coolant.
Plenums off along with a few brackets etc.
Fuel rails and manifolds
Manifold at both downpipes unbolted
Head bolts cracked (Damn they're tight, but not too much of a challenge for my 24 inch breaker bar!
The pop, if with it's head!
I had noticed oil on spark plugs 4 and 6.
You can see the obvious signs of oil burning especially in the exhaust manifold which is still pretty wet with oil.
The old head gasket on it looked in pretty good shape as did the manifold gasket. They're all getting replaced anyway.
I probably won't be doing much until next week now at which point I'll get the rear head off then do the valve stem seals and seats before getting it checked for straightness at the shop.
A good job well done so far. Now to go order some more bits n bobs......
Some good progress there mate looks like a fair bit of oil on them mate should run like a dream with all new seals in
Loving the job your doing good to see another one who takes pride in his car and has a passion to keep it the way it should be
Done another wee bit today, Hit a snag tho. The apparent universal valve spring tool I have isn't any good because the valves are recessed. Need to hunt for the correct tool now
Still pottering away at it,
Got the two heads down to the machine shop to get checked for straightness and skimmed if needbe....They haven't checked them for straightness but have said that it will be £80 + VAT per head and a 2-3 week turnaround!!!! I nearly died with my legs in the air!
Needless to say, I'll be picking them back up and going elsewhere. Shame as well because they have quite good reviews.
Got the block cleaned up, having a bit of trouble getting the old gasket marks off the but I have tried everything except a hard abrasive. It feels very smooth tho so hopefully that's enough.
Lastly I got some new goodies through too
Hope you find somewhere that can help you out with the head work.
Got them home and check them with a straight edge. No issues whatsoever so no need to skim them. I've done my valve seats now and the valve stem oil seals. SOme of the valves are back in, still got another 2 cylinders to do though.
It's coming along in leaps and bounds. Hopefully try and get her fired up on friday when I'll have a few hours to spare.